Wipe any excess adhesive off the shelf and the face of the tile with a damp sponge. If the shelf doesn't have a flange that overlaps the tile, clear any thin-set out of the grout line around its perimeter with a toothpick or other pointed tool.
Place strips of tape across the shelf at the middle and both ends to hold it to the wall during the drying period. Allow the thin-set to cure for 24 hours before using the shelf. For shelves without a flange, press grout into the line around its perimeter with a grout float.
Remove excess grout with a damp sponge. Wait overnight before subjecting the shelf to moisture. Steve Hamilton has been writing professionally since His credits include novels under the Dell imprint and for Harlequin Worldwide.
A remodeling and repair specialist with over 20 years experience, he is also a Certified Pool Operator and holds an EPA Universal refrigerant certification. By Steve Hamilton. Use tile spacers between the tiles to ensure uniform spaces for the grout joints. Let the installation dry for 24 to 72 hours. Remove the tile spacers from the joints. Use masking tape to cover any of the edges within the shelves that do not have tile, as well as the outer edges, to protect them from being covered in grout.
Push grout into the joints with the tip of the grout float. Clean excess grout off the faces of the tiles, using the grout float. Work carefully against the edges where the masking tape is so you don't smear excess grout onto untiled surfaces. Wait 30 minutes or until the grout hardens in the joint.
Check it with your finger prior to washing to verify it has begun to harden. Clean the grout off the tile, using a damp sponge in a bucket of water. Rinse the sponge frequently to avoid streaking. Remove the masking tape when finished and let the shelf dry for 24 hours before stacking materials on top of the tile.
Tim Anderson has been freelance writing since He spent more than 15 years as a third-generation tile and stone contractor before transitioning into freelance writing.
Set your shelf directly into the troweled thinset at the level of your tile tops. This photo shows the shelf heading toward the tiles; it is not yet touching the wall here at this level, although it appears to be doing so. Push the shelf firmly into the troweled thin-set, wiggling it in securely. Note: If you decided not to create a notch at the back of your tile, you will want to angle your shelf ever so slightly so the back corner is elevated so water will run off the front of the shelf into the shower.
Measure, cut, and install tiles above the shelf. This is easier than it might seem. The tile under the shelf is a true half-height tile. Mathematically, this would look like:. You could, if you wanted, simply fill the center crack with grout when you grout the rest of your shower and call it good.
The corner shower shelf is stable and secure at this point. Nothing against that delicious sandwich cookie, of course. Omitting the darkest tiles and keeping the lightest so as to not draw too much attention to themselves , I peeled off each tile from the backing and laid them out in a straight line the same length as my corner shelf face. After discussing at my local hardware store the pros and cons of adhering marble tiles to other marble tiles, I found some water-resistant epoxy that seemed perfect for the job.
Pour the epoxy components, in equal amounts, into a disposable mixing tray. I ended up mixing two separate batches for this job. Stir carefully and completely. Epoxy will only work when the two parts are together, so if you miss stirring in any sections, the bond strength will be significantly decreased, if not altogether nonexistent. Dab just a bit onto the back of your first tile.
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