This is exactly what happens without a valve box, the house that keeps the vital components of the system clean and dry. These are made to be buried underground, but if you're using anti-siphon valves -- the ones with the inlet and outlet on the bottom of the valves, rather than the sides -- it has to be installed above ground to comply with plumbing codes. Excavate soil to a depth of 6 inches in an area equal to 2 inches greater than the length and width of the valve box.
Place the valve box onto the gravel. The narrower side with the lid should be facing up. Next, determine whether to run the tubing above or below ground. Hiding the drip tubing under mulch or light ground cover enhances visually sensitive areas, such as flower beds and walkways.
Many vegetable gardeners stake drip irrigation tubing above ground. This method allows easier maintenance and the ability to replace or remove emitters without digging up the tubing. Some landscapes use a combination of both. A lawn with multiple flower-bed islands would use solid tubing under the grass and above-ground tubing in the beds. When using a hose bib as a water source, include a backflow preventer. The backflow preventer stops irrigation water from contaminating the potable water supply.
The pressure reducing fitting keeps the water pressure at a safe level, usually 25PSI, for the poly tubing. Each branch line requires a tee-fitting and an end cap.
Extremely large areas often require individual zones that run at different times, using the same zone valves that a standard lawn sprinkler system uses. Homeowners with large gardens may need to break their drip-irrigation system up into valve-controlled zones. Create a diagram of the landscaping and plan the drip irrigation system. A common system uses a main trunk line to feed multiple branch lines. The trunk line normally runs from the timer through the center of the irrigated area.
The branch lines, when needed, tap off the trunk and feed other areas. Mark each emitter's placement on the diagram and circle the emitter's coverage. Label each emitter and its type, such as.
Total the emitter's flow rate. If the calculated flow rate exceeds GPH, either split the system into two sections or remove enough emitters to drop the total below GPH. Estimate the material needed, using the layout as a guide. A careful layout of the drip irrigation system reduces material waste and coverage overlaps. Both above- and below-ground applications have different types of emitters available, including drip heads, micro sprayers, drip lines and soaker lines. Water dribbles from a drip head, soaking the soil around a single plant.
Micro sprayers throw water into the air like a whole-lawn sprinkler system and can cover several feet in each direction. A drip line has evenly spaced ports along its entire length. Soaker lines sweat along their entire length. Drip heads and micro sprayers are measured in GPH, gallons per hour. To help match the system's design to the landscaping, manufacturers offer micro sprayers with , , degree and fully adjustable nozzles. Gardeners often plug multiple types of emitters into a single drip line.
This lets them water several different plant species, anything from corn to radishes, off of a single line. Use a smaller tool or your hands to sculpt the trench if necessary. In addition, save all the dirt that you displace when digging the trench. You can go further than the recommended inches if you live in an area which typically becomes freezing during winter months, or if you are otherwise at risk of a cold snap during other seasons.
In addition, inches of depth is usually far enough to save your pipes from any shovel damage. All of these depths are good for allowing optimal soil integrity and grass growth, as well. The pipes will be far enough down to not disturb any grass seeds or other small flowers that might take root in your yard.
Anything shallower than 8 inches or so runs the risk of becoming damaged during winter or compromising your soil and preventing grass from growing properly. Most standard PVC pipes used for sprinkler systems have diameters between 1.
This is perfect for the above general depths that we recommended. When it comes to your sprinkler system and choosing between sizes, keep in mind that the diameter effects the overall water flow of your sprinkler system.
This means that, in general, larger yards will require deeper trenches as a result of their needing wider pipes. By contrast, smaller yards will need shallower trenches since their pipes will also be smaller. But we wanted a sprinkler system that would last for years, and PVC breaks down in the sun over time. Plastic can also be broken by someone accidentally hitting, kicking, or tripping on it, and we have kids.
There are two types of sprinkler valves, in-line and and anti-siphon. The anti-siphon valves are the ones with a backflow prevention device inside. They have to be above ground for the backflow device to work.
Just FYI, if you live where it freezes, your valves have to be underground. We planned to put in three valves, one for a sprinkler system and two for drip systems. We found this great kit on amazon. We also bought a valve box and cover from the same manufacturer, so we knew that valves would fit inside. Then laid the valves in the box and started connecting it to the brass pipes with PVC pipes. PVC is very easy to work with, you just cut it to the right length, and on the inside of the female piece and outside of the male piece, then push them together.
We had to make a U-shape with our pipes to get the box to fit where we wanted it. Once the glue was dry, we tested the whole thing by turning on the water valve that yellow handle.
The sprinkler valves are closed until you tell them to open with an irrigation timer , so everything should stay nice and dry. Lucky for us, it did. One final thought: connecting to the water main in this house was difficult, but each step after got easier and easier.
0コメント